amertrash

Didn't build my various trap to not be constantly idling in one Fatty, let me know their screen names and I'll give them a golden shovel and show them how to use so they can claim an area as if they don't you're kinda of restricted as to what you can do.

usually just a few on, myself the most. kids should be fine, I'll keep it clean.

Went with shaft as I'm sure he keeps a constant stash of whiskey on him.

Yea, I bought 3 of the PC Power and Cooling Silencer 370W PSUs for $42/piece when OCZ bought them out and replaced them with out-sourced Sirtec designed units. For the future if you want an easy way to calculate TDP here's the gist of it, most power hungry to start with. GeForce 660 140W (source) i5-3350P 69W (source) B75 Chipset 6.9W(source) CPU VRM 20W Bit harder to source on this one, the board has to convert 12V to the CPU's Vcore, that's figured at 70% efficiency or so RAM 20W Too lazy to source since I can't just wiki it, and even 20W is way high. Those sticks of RAM couldn't even dissipate that without overheating and releasing their magic smoke fairly quickly. HDD 20W This I'm too lazy to source as well, last time I did is when I added drives to my home NAS. The 7.2K RPM drives out there eat up 15W-20W but only on spin up and around half or less of that under use. The only time drives really become an issue is if you're using a lot of them in array and the hardware doesn't support staggered spin up or if you're using 10k/15k drives and then it's usually more of a heat issue than a power issue. Optical 20W Too lazy to source this but probably way on the overkill side. My old 8x SCSI PlexWriter probably ate a bit more than this as it had a pair of 40mm fans, but I haven't seen modern burners use active cooling in a long time and trying to dissipate more than 20W of heat without active cooling or a decently large passive heatsink isn't going to go over well. So 295.9W, adding 20% to get a safe minimum 355.08W. When it breaks down to it the big consumers are the video card + CPU which are easily source on Wiki, going to something like the highest end Sandy Bridge-E with its 150W TDP means the CPU VRM is gonna suck up a bit too. If in doubt if it doesn't have active cooling or large chunks of finned copper/aluminum it can't be drawing that much power/generating that much heat.

PS2 and PS4 were both great games, and would be tied in my opinion for the best games every made on the Genesis but they aren't anything like PSO. Admittedly I only played the first one on Dreamcast but it certainly wasn't my thing.

Your total wattage is less than 300W, my rig at home has similar power requirements and I run on an old PC Power and Cooling Silencer 370W. Your board isn't capable of SLI/CrossfireX, and future wise the general trend is "green". If you wanted to spend the money I'd go with this, it gives you enough headroom for the future and passes HardOCP's torture test(which means running it at 80% load in an ambient tempeture of 113F - brutal). Whatever you order I'd look at HardOCP's PSU reviews first, they are extremely well done.

Isn't that just the French?

I'm with your dad myself, frikken hate cats. I will say however the cats on our farm live in a 50 year old plus dirt floored pole barn with nothing but some straw bails and deer/pheasant entrails in temps down to -30C and usually do fine, but then again they are farm cats.

Oh man do I miss the original Sealab 2021 before Harry Goz/Capt Murphy Died. Gonna get myself a can of Mingus Dew and think about the good old days.

I see no bluetooth adapter listed on the website for that laptop. If you do have Bluetooth it should list near the top of Device Manger(Press Windows Key + R, type "devmgmt.msc" and press return to get there), under the category "Bluetooth Radios" so long as it has drivers installed. Bluetooth radios are typically(always?) USB devices so you could download this and see if it's listed there. You should have posted the error message along with what version of Windows you are running.

Aye as JC said, Hamachi won't do anything for you. Only thing you can do is try a different ISP and even that is doubtful as most of the transatlantic cables sit at 70-100ms of latency, and most of them on your side terminate in the UK or France adding more latency, and terminate on the east coast here once again adding more latency. You could run 4,000+ mile fiber optic cable from your house to Chicago which figuring the speed of light at 186,000 miles per second would give you around 21ms not including switching hardware. Might be cost prohibitive .

Quick break down of some admin commands: /adminclaims and /basicclaims These switch between the normal(basic) and administrative claims modes /ignoreclaims Lets admins modify other users's claims, it's a toggle so type it again to turn it off. /adjustbonusclaimblocks <player> <amount> Adjust a player's number of claim blocks /claimslist List everyone's claims and their sizes /restorenature Used with the golden shovel to restore unclaimed land to it's 'natural' state. Won't effect claimed land. /restorenaturefill <radius> Used the same as above but with fill radius to cover a larger area. /restorenatureaggressive Same as the first but will effect more block types, try last. /deathblow Kills a player and drops their inventory to collect it before banning Settings: Lava/Water buckets can not be used on above ground unclaimed land, I'm fine with this. BlockSurfaceExplosions: true This prevent creepers from do any damage to the surface anywhere above ground. It also blocks TNT from being detonated above ground level anywhere including on your own claims. If I had to vote, I'd vote to turn this off myself as not being able to use my copious amounts of TNT for demo work is more annoying than creepers. EndermenMoveBlocks: false Stops Enders from moving blocks - I'm fine with this off as it means enders won't randomly steal blocks from the pathways/fields. CreaturesTrampleCrops: false Stops aggressive/passive mobs from trampling crops, indifferent here as I keep my fields roped off. FireSpreads: false FireDestroys: false I'd turn these on, I use fires to clear out forests regularly plus fire == fun. Even with both on claims are still protected. RemoveFloatingTreetops: true RegrowGriefedTrees: true These delete trees that people haven't finished chopping down and automatically plants a sapling, fine with this.

I take it we're running the default config for Grief Prevention

allanon: It's a bit older but I'd say it goes to 13. It had two Penryn based quad core Xeons with a happy combined 24M of L2 cache. boiler: If you wanna donate a video card(s) then yes, as the 32M ATI video probably won't do it. Also I still rock a Philips 201P 21" CRT running at 2048x1538x100Hz. Love my old monitor. voodoo: It actually came with a SCSI U320 PCIe 8x HBA, probably for a tape drive at one time, probably pull it and put it in my junk drawer. sutters: Standard feature on this generation so if you're running KVMless and iLO for some reason breaks you can just plugin up front without having to pull the server out on it's rails. tomatoes: I would love to donate like a DL360e Gen8 but a loaded out one at cost is still easily pushing 4k. I got this from a local recycler that buys out all the equipment from the local datacenters and it was (very) cheap. The old beast should happily run multiple game servers, and it is about as reliable as you can get. Right now it has the P400 SAS RAID controller with 512M of BBWC and a couple of 10k 146G drives. I gotta dig through inventory at work and see if we have matched four matched 15k drives for a RAID 10 or perhaps a RAID 5 depending on what I can scrounge up. Depending on what I can find laying around for RAM for it I'd like to see 8 4G DIMMs either configured as 32G or as 24G with two hot-spares for each bank, we'll see what I can find laying around as I rather not order RAM for as it's expensive. If someone wants to donate 8 8G DDR2-667 buffered ECC HP spec'ed DIMMs go for it It has a single 800W hot-swap power supply in it, depending on what the local guy has/online prices I might throw in a second one right away. It also sports two 1000Base ethernet controllers with transmit/receive offload, TSO offload, Link aggregation and fail over, jumbo frames, an iLO2 basic license, and N+1 redundant fans. Like all HP servers besides the newer UEFI ones it does it's 'fan curve update' on boot up and it'll suck a small mammal through the front of it and sounds like an Airbus A380.

Waymon in order to run 3 under nVidia("Surround Gaming") you need to have two cards in SLI. For AMD just about any card will run 3("eyefinity"), but you have to have the right connections. You can run two monitors on DVI(or VGA), but the 3rd monitor has to be on DisplayPort either with a DP capable monitor or using an Active Displayport to DVI adapter. I'd go with this as if you want triple monitors it'll be a better choice than nVidia, it has a better than stock cooling setup and already has a small overclock. It's 11.4" long so make sure you have space in your case and I'd say a 600W power supply or better with 2 6 pin PCIe connectors or the appropriate adapter(s). EDIT: You'll need to pick up two of these if your monitors are DVI. Or you could do one DP adapter and get an HDMI to DVI cable, or something else depending on the connectors the monitors.

You re-installed Windows without formatting the SSD? If you did that it would have saved the old windows folder as "windows.old". You should use the vendor tools to format the SSD to start with, you can use this to identify what is taking up the space. System Restore shouldn't be using any space on a fresh install, you can always check under control panel -> System -> System Protection.

Current power supply, CPU, and motherboard?

Correction, Elmers(PVA) glue isn't toxic, but that doesn't make it per-say edible. The whole burger thing is interesting in that it's more or less mess free.

I haven't played PB in probably 7 or 8 years now, but Mercman has the best advice. Get a good mask before getting a good marker - even better a double lens mask with a fan. There is nothing worse than fogging over in the middle of it. Couldn't say on markers, I had a Rainmaker full-auto when I played which are now long gone.

Kinda of apples to oranges. The Lian Li PC-A05 is about the smallest lightest mATX/ATX case you can get and still cram two 11" video cards in it. It weighs just about half as much as the HAF 922, and is nearly half the physical side @ 2468in^3 vs 4373in^3. It is tiny, well built, all aluminum, tool-less and very LAN friendly. I will say it's a little odd as they shoved the PSU in front bottom to get it that small and it blows heat out the front and intakes from the rear. This time of year it rules as it keeps my feet warm, not so much in the summertime. As for the straight up subjective form side I'd take the Lian-Li as it's clean straight lines with no windows/LEDs/light up lights as I grew out of that stage long ago .

Still nicer than my gaming rig, and it does fine, that thing should murder right along. EDIT: Get some zipties on those SATA cables!

If you wanna build it yourself Optical Drive - $19.99 Case - $89.99 Hard Drive - $64.99 Video Card - 219.99 Power Supply - 59.99 Memory - 35.99 Motherboard - 69.99 Processor - 194.99 So 752.99 for just about equal performance to the pre-built one, but with higher quality parts all around. The case is expensive, feel free to pick any mATX/ATX you like, I just hate cheap cases If you wanna go cheaper I'd suggest downgrading the CPU first down to a i3-3220 at the lowest, or downgrading the video card. Edit: I'd also advise not going for any all in one solution. Rarely do they offer an actual PCIe slot(video card), but they often suffer from heat problems. They use non-standard parts(like the PSU) and if the LCD fails the whole thing is junk, just like if the motherboard fails.

Quick browsing of newegg and I'd pick this if you wanna go the pre-built route.

[utube]hNUeSUXOc-w[/utube] You know it will go badly as we're already abusing them too, see below! [utube]SSbZrQp-HOk[/utube]

XCom was excellent, but little replay value.