Crown Molding

[Lunk]

When putting up Crown Molding. Do you nail it in the center? or one near top and one near bottom of the piece?

 

Any other helpful tips is appreciated.

[Bubblegum Bandit]

I'll spit something at you, but Clue is the one to really ask. I would tend to shoot the top and bottom. If you shoot the middle I would think you would need really long nails/staples and you would also have a lot of blow-throughs due to nothing behind the wood to slow the nail down.

[ConGregation]

I work in a 'trailer factory' and the trimmers usually shoot in the middle into the topplate of the wall. Of course they have their guns set just right so the nail won't shoot through the piece but just flush.

 

But with our units there would be nothing to nail to in the ceiling unless you found the rafter. If they use it too close to the bottom it splits it out cause the molding is thin right there. Also they are usually using the... um... manufactured stuff (not real wood) although I think there is the real wood option.

 

The one trimmer said they use to use the 'pin nailers' (brad gun I think) shooting both into the wall and ceiling but they would only be shooting into gyp/drywall and that wouldn't hold very well.

 

Anyway just what I have observed and heard, the only crown molding I have put up looks terrible is falling away in spots

Edited October 21, 2005 by ConGregation

[Lunk]

You guys sorta "hit the nail on the head" so to speak.

 

My concern was, not sure if I'll hit anything at the top. Not exactly sure how my second floor trusses are running direction wise. I mean I have an idea just from a common sense stand point. But, then again one never knows for sure.

 

And I do appreciate the info.

 

BTW: I bought the Porter Cable nailer/compressor combo from home depot. Anyone know how to adjust the pressure at which the gun shoots the nails? Or is it controlled by the output valve on the compressor?

[Clueless]

There should be a knob near the gauge on the compressor that adjusts that, but that one may not be adjustable, it might be set to full power.

 

As far as the crown goes, nailing the center is just wasting nails, unless you have 4" nails, lol. I nail it across the bottom of the crown, in the cove portion, making sure to hit studs.

 

I also nail the top here and there, but that is hit and miss depending on how the house is constructed and the size of the crown, but if your lucky, you can hit the top plate, which is the doubled up 2x4's on top of the stud wall, so angle the gun to aim for that, using 2 1/2 inch nails for this helps.

 

If you cant hit solid wood there, you can also just shoot 2 nails in the top, side by side, criss crossed into the drywall ceiling, although not perfect, it will provide some support, and if your painting it, the caulk will also act as an adhesive.

 

Remember to leave the corners unnailed within a few feet to allow you to adjust the joint, that will save a lot of drywall repair from you smashing your head into the wall, lol

 

You can AIM me @ cluele55 gc, or even call my celphone which is listed in the lead admin forum if you need any quick answers, im always reachable on that.

[Lunk]

So I'm guessing, putting up 4 and half inch crown molding, it's definately gonna need to be nailed at the top?

 

BTW, I'm taking donations for this. $2.75 a linear foot is gonna put me in the poor house. That's from Home Depot. I'm gonna check at Lowes tomorrow. I believe they have a larger selection.

 

Thanks Clue. With your tutelage I just may turn into a half way decent carpenter.

 

And my next project is to build a big wood working shed/barn in the back yard. Gotta get my saws and what not out of the garage. And get some room to work.

[Clueless]

It really just depends on how flat the ceiling is, the strength is actually in the lower nails in the cove portion, the upper nails are just to make it fit tight to the ceiling without gaps.

 

4" is medium sized, you may be lucky enough to hit the top plate, especially if its 52 degree crown instead of 45 degree because it will sit flatter on the wall and not push out so far onto the ceiling.

 

Just a few sections of criss crossed nails where its needed will do just fine though, i rarely have a problem.

 

Good luck!!!

 

(Just remember, crown is one of the most challenging trim pieces to work with, so dont get discouraged, your doing the hardest stuff first )

[MrDuke]

You guys sorta "hit the nail on the head" so to speak. 

 

My concern was, not sure if I'll hit anything at the top. Not exactly sure how my second floor trusses are running direction wise. I mean I have an idea just from a common sense stand point. But, then again one never knows for sure.

 

Look at your vents upstairs. That'll tell you which direction they run.

 

Cutting crown is tough. My buddy gave me good advice and said make a few different cuts and write down how you cut them on the piece. You'll waste a little in the beginning but it will save you a BUNCH at the end of the project.

 

He also said if you are a noob (and I was), make your cuts so that you have a smaller section going into a joint. That way if you screw up a cut it's not a costly mistake. Redoing a 3 foot piece is cheaper than redoing a 7 ft piece.

[Bubblegum Bandit]

Its also helpful to make a jig to hold the crown while you're cutting it. I made myself one for my mitre saw that holds the crown at the right angle while I make the cut. Depending on how your workbench is, it could be as simple as screwing or clamping a stop block to your bench the correct distance from yoru fence.

[Lunk]

Thanks guys for the info.

 

I'm fixin' to get started.

[Clueless]

How did it go?

[anonymo]

Lunk with a nail gun!? HIT THE DECK!

[Lunk]

How did it go?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It's up in the one room I'm starting with. Only had a couple of hours yesterday to work on it. And today we had a family day. So, nothing got done on it.

 

Tomorrow I will fill all nail holes and my mitered seams and priming my corner blocks. Lay down my caulking. Tuesday I plan on sanding said nail holes and painting. I'll try to get some pics posted up once it's complete.

 

Overall, I'm happy with the way things are going. My motto of "Measure Once, Cut Twice" has caused me to make a few extra cuts. Yes, I know it should be "Measure Twice, Cut Once" but I like living on the edge. Anyways, I decided to use the corner blocks for simplicity. And I have to say I like the look of them. It adds a nice finished touch to it.

 

I'm looking forward to doing the other 10 or 11 rooms I've got left. Not to mention the hallways. After that, my wife wants me to do some wainscotting.

 

Thanks for the tips Clue. I'm gonna do some experimenting as I go further. Such as using 12 or 16 foot sections to cut down on my miter joints. I used 8 footers this time because I'm doing it by myself and I figured I could handle them much easier. And I will have to learn to cut non-normal corners as I've got some walls that meet at something other than a 90 degree angle.

[Bubblegum Bandit]

I'm looking forward to doing the other 10 or 11 rooms I've got left. Not to mention the hallways. After that, my wife wants me to do some wainscotting.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Painted or Stained?

[Clueless]

When using long sections by yourself, i usually just cut a couple 2x4's and lean them against the wall and use them as helpers, you can even nail a 16" piece or so, to the bottom, kinda like a T, so its more stable and wont slide out on ya.

 

Sometimes its a pain, but still easier than all those joints.

 

Glad it went well for ya, im always reachable if you need more pointers

[Sgt. Spuds]

Clue, are you a contractor? Ive done my share of home remodeling with my father in the summers, its amazing how much you can learn by just trying stuff, good luck lunk!

 

PS, dont shoot a nail through your finger when nailing outside corners... ouch.

[Clueless]

Clue, are you a contractor? Ive done my share of home remodeling with my father in the summers, its amazing how much you can learn by just trying stuff, good luck lunk!

 

PS, dont shoot a nail through your finger when nailing outside corners... ouch.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I am a sub-contactor, I specialize in finish carpentry and retail commercial space. I was working for another guy for a few years and recently just took the plunge and started my own company.

[Lunk]

I'm looking forward to doing the other 10 or 11 rooms I've got left. Not to mention the hallways. After that, my wife wants me to do some wainscotting.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Painted or Stained?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Everything will be painted.

 

We still have walls(rooms) that we want to paint also. We have painted the following: Office, Dining, Living, the 2 kids bedrooms & 1 out of 5 bathrooms.

 

I have one area that is about 20 foot high. And I am still deciding how or if I'm going to do the crown molding in it. I have lots of open corners and open area that I need to sit down and figure out just how I want to finish it.

 

I also saw some leather panels at Lowes, that I thought about using. And framing out instead of the wainscotting. Haven't showed my wife this yet. Have to get her opinion.

[Lunk]

When using long sections by yourself, i usually just cut a couple 2x4's and lean them against the wall and use them as helpers, you can even nail a 16" piece or so, to the bottom, kinda like a T, so its more stable and wont slide out on ya.

 

Sometimes its a pain, but still easier than all those joints.

 

Glad it went well for ya, im always reachable if you need more pointers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Honestly, I don't mind the joints. Just makes more to go back and cover up. At the same time it gives me a chance to practice my cuts. Also, can use it to talk my wife into a compound sliding miter saw or a regular compound miter saw. Currently I have a Makita miter saw. It works great. But, a compound miter saw would give me more options.

[Clueless]

I have a Makita 10" sliding, dual bevel saw, great tool, I would highly recommend it.

 

That does give you a ton more options, like the ability to cut the crown flat instead of trying to make sure you have it set just right against the fence.

 

Check out Tool Crib online, they have some good deals, I would also look into factory reconditioned tools, save alot of cash and still get the factory warranty. Those tools are all like new, never used in the field, they are tools that may have failed a test or have been a store return, I have a ton of Bosch reconditioned stuff, never had a problem.

 

As far as the high section you gotta do, the only real safe and effective way to do it, would be to use 2 extention ladders, with the plank brackets, and make a plank to stand on, then you can be more stable and work easier. You can rent that stuff too.

[Lunk]

Update:

 

Ok, all nail holes filled & sanded. All edges have been caulked. Will paint everything tomorrow afternoon. I want to give the caulking a good 24 hours to dry & setup. BTW, caulking SUCKS.

 

So in the morning, I will run by Lowe's and pick up the crown molding for the dining room. And start putting it up until I can paint the stuff in my office.

 

Clue, I checked out ToolCrib.com. They currently have the same type saw you have. It's a factory reconditioned one and it's got a pricetag of $389. This a good deal? It appears that it is.

[shep48]

I have same saw and its great.

[Clueless]

Update:

 

Ok, all nail holes filled & sanded. All edges have been caulked. Will paint everything tomorrow afternoon. I want to give the caulking a good 24 hours to dry & setup. BTW, caulking SUCKS. 

 

So in the morning, I will run by Lowe's and pick up the crown molding for the dining room. And start putting it up until I can paint the stuff in my office.

 

Clue, I checked out ToolCrib.com. They currently have the same type saw you have. It's a factory reconditioned one and it's got a pricetag of $389. This a good deal? It appears that it is.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, its a good deal, I paid 499 for mine.